Under the Spell of Maillol. by Deborah Alexander, Aug 15

If you are harassed by the heat, or seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of the holiday crowd, an outing to the Maillol museum is the perfect antidote to restore your inner calm.

It is a hidden gem of a museum, totally devoted to the works of Aristide Maillol. You may already have seen his sculptures in the area, or farther afield in Paris, and this is hardly surprising, as his work ranks alongside that of the better-known Rodin or Henry Moore. Yet this world-famous artist had relatively humble beginnings in Banyuls-sur-Mer, and it is only right that his work should be celebrated here.
Initially, he worked in both tapestry design and oil painting, and examples of this can be seen at the museum. However, Maillol is better known for his large bronze sculptures, mainly of the female form, and there are some wonderful examples of these, as well as the smaller ‘maquettes’, the clay models that artists often use to work out their design.
Elements of the classic Greek style are evident in Maillol’s statues, but the stylized curves of his glossy bronze sculptures give off a warmth and intensity not to be found in Greek statues. His style has also been compared to that of Rodin, but a longer look shows more rounded forms, a less emotive approach….less story-telling, if you like…and it is this that gives off a serenity and calm that is quite contagious.
Why choose this rural spot for a museum? Because ‘La Métairie’ was Maillol’s home, and this more domestic aspect is also on display. The wicker chair he sat in, photographs of an elderly Maillol in situ, and even a kitchen and dining-room laid out to reflect the early 1900s.
This little museum has incredible charm, and this, combined with the rural setting, not only draws you into Maillol’s world, but creates a sense of peace that calms and refreshes the over-heated and harassed. Why not seek it out and fall under the spell of Maillol yourself?
Practical information: Finding the museum is not difficult once you know that you are looking for an old, restored farmhouse called ‘La Métairie’ tucked away in the countryside just outside Banyuls-sur-Mer. There are beautifully hand-painted blue-and-white signs along the way to help you, although the one in Banyuls itself gets rather lost amongst multiple other signs. But here’s where to go: in the centre of Banyuls, turn right at the Hotel de Ville, taking the Ave. Général de Gaulle. This goes out of town, under the railway line, along a road marked ‘Col de Banyuls/Route des Mas’, for about 4kms. You will see a coach park on your left. You now have a choice…carry on to the car park closer to the Museum, or park here and take the 5-10 minute riverside walk leading to the back of the Museum.
Opening times: Open every day, all year, apart from bank holidays. Summer opening hours 10:00 to 12:00 and 16:00 to 19:00. Entrance fee: 3, 50 euros for adults, 2, 50 euros for children under 14 and students. For further information ring the museum on 04 68 88 57 11

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